As a jewellery designer, Carrie Lamb knows the importance of keeping up with the latest trends in the industry. In this blog post, she discusses the top engagement ring trends for 2024, including the rise in popularity of lab-grown diamonds and alternative gemstones. She also emphasizes the importance of choosing quality over size when it comes to the centre stone of an engagement ring, and explores various design and setting options for couples looking to create a unique and personalized ring.

Your Choice of Diamond or Alternate Gemstone

The biggest trend for my clients lies in their choice of gemstone. Increasingly, I find clients are embracing lab-grown diamonds, ethically-sourced earth-grown diamonds and coloured sapphires.

The choice you make on your centre stone is typically the most expensive component to consider when pricing your engagement ring. In my opinion, there is no substitute for an exquisite stone, in terms of quality, and therefore brilliance. Your choice of stone is critical for a truly beautiful ring. 

As a custom designer, my signature FRIDA fine jewellery and engagement collections, are filled with a kaleidoscope of natural sapphires and rare gemstones. I use top quality brilliant-cut diamonds for accents and/or centre stones. Pieces reflect my aesthetic as a designer and those of a discerning clientele. 

Naturally, when working with custom engagement, I work with clients within their budget; however, no matter the budget, my advice will always be to never sacrifice quality for the size of the centre stone.

Lab-Grown Diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds have the same physical, chemical and optical properties as earth-grown/naturally-mined diamonds. As a consequence, lab-grown diamonds have the same sparkle, fire and scintillation as natural diamonds; they are neither fake, nor synthetic. At upwards of 70%+ less (at the time of writing), they are more affordable than their naturally-mined counterpart. From a sustainability perspective, they are ‘grown’ inside a lab using cutting-edge technology that replicates the natural growing process.

The question is, will lab-grown diamonds hold their value/price, or as supply increases, will they drop? What is the appreciation of your gemstone versus lab-grown? A high-quality natural white diamond will hold value, depending on the rarity, a lab-grown diamond may not. If cost is a deciding factor when considering your centre stone, look to a beautiful, high quality lab-grown diamond or a coloured sapphire/gemstone. A lower grade or commercial quality natural diamond is never a wise investment, in my opinion.

Coloured and Alternative Gemstones 

Whilst diamonds are the most popular gemstone of choice for engagement rings, there are a myriad of choices when it comes to considering an alternative. Your choice is infinite, not finite!

Coloured engagement rings include coloured diamonds and exquisite precious gemstones, eg., sapphires, rubies, emeralds and spinels. In beautiful colours and/or unusual cuts, coloured gemstones offer a unique perspective to classic engagement ring settings, rendering it one-of-a-kind. ‘Engage' in colour! 

Here are some of the top engagement ring centre stone trends:

I love sapphires! As a destination jeweller, many of my collection rings  house gorgeous sapphires in exquisite, often exotic, colours from rich traditional blues to watery depths of peach and pink to vivid fuchsia, teal and purple… beyond stunning! Aside from their beauty, sapphires are a splendid choice for your custom engagement ring; not only are they unique, they are also extremely durable. On the Mohs scale, sapphires is a 9, making them close to diamonds, in terms of hardness (diamonds being the highest at 10). This is a very important factor, when considering a stone’s wearability. An engagement ring is worn every day; therefore, stone choice is a major factor, and historically the reason why diamonds and sapphires dominate, when it comes to choice.

High quality rubies are now highly collectable and far rarer and more expensive than diamonds. Origin is a major factor when considering an investment ruby. Natural Burmese rubies, ‘pigeon blood’ red in colour, are extremely rare and command high prices. Naturally, there are many grades and investment levels to consider. As always, size in a high quality stone will seriously affect price; however, when size is not a factor, focus on the colour and inherent beauty of the gemstone. Work with your designer for advice, based on your investment level.

Bright, beautiful and green… emeralds are stunning! I use them as accent stones in many of my pieces. That said, as a centre stone in a dress ring, that is worn as such, perfect! For an engagement ring, I would air to the side of caution. Emeralds are softer than diamonds, making them more fragile to cut, to set and to wear. At 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale, emeralds belong to the Beryl family of minerals. Top quality gems are rare and command high prices. Most natural emeralds have inclusions (small imperfections), which often do not detract from the value, as they would in diamonds; however, they make the gem susceptible to breakage. For these reasons, as much as I love them, I do not recommend emeralds for engagement rings. If you love green, perhaps consider green sapphires, green diamonds or Tsavorite. Discuss with your jeweller; this is simply my opinion.

Again, I love opals; however, for daily wear, I would say no. Opals are a gorgeous choice for fine jewellery creations; I use them frequently. Be aware, they scratch easily and are susceptible to environmental conditions, including sunlight, temperature and moisture. Opals are relatively fragile; hence, not a good choice for engagement rings.

Modern, different and alternative! The natural inclusions in salt and pepper diamonds are what make them so attractive. As they are heavily included, they are often discarded during the diamond sorting process. The carbon inclusions render them beautiful one-of-a-kind, but also far more likely to crack under pressure. In my experience, they often break during setting, and as a consequence, I use them only in dress rings, pendants and art pieces. By definition, salt and pepper diamonds are deemed low quality diamonds and are far less expensive than other diamonds and gemstones. That said, they are interesting and unique… wear them with caution and enjoy!

Chic rock 'n' roll and cool, black diamonds definitely make a statement. Natural black diamonds are less expensive than white diamonds in larger sizes, but almost as high when setting small stones. As black diamonds are heavily included with tiny fractures, it makes them more prone to breakage. Treated black diamonds are less costly when considering a centre stone. A GIA or IGI report will classify whether the diamond has been treated or is natural. Obviously, natural black diamonds are more valuable. I use natural black diamonds in many rings, and they look stunning. Would I suggest them in an engagement ring? At your own risk, sorry!

Morganite is a pinky-peach semi-precious stone in the Beryl family. The stone is stunning!  As it is a softer stone, I would again urge caution. I use it typically in pieces that won't be worn everyday. Morganite will abrade and become dull with heavy use. As engagement rings are to be worn daily, I do not recommend morganite. Obviously, use your own judgement when considering this as your centre stone. It really is a choice, based on lifestyle intended use and expectations.

As a custom designer, I am often asked about moissanite. The majority of moissanite is lab-grown, having been synthesized to produce what is called a scintillation gemstone. On the Mohs scale, moissanite is a 9.5, second only to diamonds. In terms of brilliance, moissanite's faceting pattern is different compared to diamonds, and one I personally do not care for. There is a tendency for the stone to look like a ‘disco ball’, especially in sunlight; hence, it is not a choice I would recommend. However, natural moissanite is incredibly rare. It was discovered by Henri Moissain in 1893, when microscopic particles of the gem were discovered in a crater created by a meteorite. Whist diamonds are graded on the 4Cs scale (cut, clarity, colour and carat weight), moissanite is graded solely on colour. As they are lab-grown, cut and clarity are similar, just as a premium diamond would be colourless, falling into the D-F range.

Engagement Ring Design

There is much to be said for classic, timeless design, perhaps embracing a ‘twist’ by choosing an unexpected stone. I think this is a consequence of shopping online. Couples feel ‘safe’ with tried and true engagement rings.

As you know, there are so many reference sites and publications dedicated to engagement ring design trends. Styles, shapes and sizes are infinite.

Settings

When considering the setting of your chosen gem, consider wear ability, lifestyle, expectations, etc. Design details are important, especially in engagement and wedding jewellery. As a custom designer, all pros and cons of settings are discussed. All of my settings are built by hand to accommodate a client’s choice of gemstone/s.

Here are some of the top engagement ring setting trends:

A solitaire setting is a classic and timeless choice for an engagement ring. This setting features a single diamond or gemstone, typically set on a simple metal band, allowing the stone to take centre stage.

A halo setting features a centre diamond or gemstone surrounded by a halo of smaller diamonds or gemstones, creating a stunning and sparkly effect.

A three-stone setting features a centre diamond or gemstone flanked by two smaller diamonds or gemstones on either side. Side stones are available in numerous shapes, sizes and colours.

Vintage-inspired engagement ring settings are becoming increasingly popular. These settings feature intricate detailing, such as milgrain or filigree, and often have a unique and romantic feel.

An east-west setting features a horizontally set diamond or gemstone, creating a unique and modern look.

The toi et moi engagement ring trend has been gaining popularity in recent years. This type of engagement ring features two stones, typically of equal size, that are set side by side, symbolizing the unity of two individuals in love. Megan Fox’s toi et moi engagement ring, featuring a pear-shaped emerald and pear-shaped diamond, has garnered a lot of attention for its elegant design, and has become a popular choice for those looking for a similar style of engagement ring. It is valid to note that the celebrity-driven market is an influential factor in engagement ring trends.

Quality is not a trend! Again, the choice of setting is personal. Look online, explore options and preferences. From avant-garde to classic, choose a setting that represents your personal style… be your own brand!

I recommend working with a custom jeweller to create a stunning representation of your unique relationship. Whether you prefer traditional or non-traditional, whether inspired by an Edwardian-era platinum and diamond ring or a classic Halo, our team considers it both a privilege and responsibility to ensure your inspiration becomes reality. 

If you are looking for a setting that is ‘outside the box’, our signature engagement rings offer a luxurious alternate to your personal story. Signature engagement rings may be interpreted in innumerable ways by mixing metals, texture and gorgeous gems. Individualized creations open the door for exciting possibilities, but in no way diminishes the timeless beauty of classic, vintage or traditional designs.

Gemstone Shape

In terms of popularity, ovals and rounds predominate, closely followed by pears and marquise cuts.

Here are some of the top gemstone shape/cut trends:

Oval-shaped gemstones are elongated, which creates a flattering and elongating effect on the finger. Oval-shaped engagement rings are a popular choice for those who want a classic and timeless look with a modern twist.

Pear-shaped gemstones have a unique and romantic look and are a popular choice for engagement rings. They can be set vertically or horizontally, creating different visual effects. I love pear shapes, because they offer so many setting options.

Marquise-shaped gemstones appear larger, because of their elongated shape. They are very flattering on the finger and offer great value. I am also excited to work with the ‘moval’ shape, which is a unique shape between an oval and a marquee. So far, they are rare and hard to source.

Emeralds-cut gemstones are stunning. A timeless, exquisite cut and can be set in many different ways. When it comes to emerald-cut diamonds, clarity is very important, as the diamond step-cut faceting makes it easy to see the slightest inclusion.

Cushion-cut gemstones have a vintage and romantic feel and are a popular choice. They have a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, creating a soft and elegant look.

Round brilliant-cut diamonds are a classic and timeless choice for engagement rings, and are always on trend! They have a brilliant sparkle and are a popular choice for diamonds.

Asscher-cut gemstones are similar to emerald-cut gemstones but have a more angular and geometric shape. This shape has become increasingly popular in recent years, especially for diamonds.

Gold Colour

Yellow gold definitely made a comeback; although, for me, it never left! Customize your design by choosing a colour of gold that best suits your skin tone. Pink/rose gold is no longer a trend… it is a choice! Based on the alloy-mixing process, our pink gold is a beautiful colour, which is softer and not as salmon, compared to hue of commercial rose gold. It is gorgeous! I typically use 18 karat (kt) gold regardless of colour, but will work with a range of gold kt, depending on a client’s preference and budget. Also, combining different metals like rose gold and white gold, or yellow gold and platinum in one ring is a trend that's gaining popularity.

‘Engage’ In Custom

The world of online jewellery is filled with mediocracy; perhaps, this is the main reason for choosing a custom engagement ring. Trends in recent years have ‘unveiled’ a need for something less expected and non-traditional. For me, this is reflected in the use of coloured gemstones and mixed metals.

Custom design allows for exciting possibilities, but in no way diminishes the timeless beauty of classic, vintage or traditional settings. The type, shape, cut and colour of your gemstone should be your starting points, then build the ring of your dreams, based on your specific criteria.

Custom offers the advantage of being able to design your own interpretation of ‘engagement’. Custom is all about personalized, thoughtful and insightful direction. This is how I, as an independent designer, differentiate from the mass-produced engagement market.

Welcome To FRIDA 

The experience of building a ring for your partner or building together is, I believe, the perfect beginning for every relationship. As a designer, it is always an absolute pleasure to work with my clients, to transform dreams to reality. The custom process is a celebration of creativity, it allows for the complete personalization of a vision, of your story. This is what separates and defines a custom jewellery designer in the world of major brands and online mass-produced jewellery.

FRIDA rings are built by hand, our diamonds and gemstones handset. We ensure your vision will be loved and cherished forever. Not only will you have a ring that meets your every criteria, but you will also select the perfect stone, as together we will source it. This is why I love the custom process.

By visiting our website or Halifax boutique, you will appreciate that the options are endless engaging in custom!

Author: Carrie Lamb

Having studied design and marketing in England, with graduate training in the high-end fashion industry with Jaeger in London, Carrie launched her fine jewellery and lifestyle brand, FRIDA, 15 years ago in Nova Scotia. One of Carrie’s greatest pleasures lies in creating stunning jewellery, which speak to the individuality of her clientele.

“One should not be defined by a brand; rather, the brand should capture and speak to one’s individual aesthetic... be your own brand!'“